Skin Conditions

It is important to understand different skin conditions, the root causes, and how to address them. A better understanding of this will improve client experience, and bette your results.

  • What is it?

    Hyperpigmentation is a general term for skin discolouration that occurs when the skin produces too much melanin. Hyperpigmentation can appear as freckles, age spots, or large darkened areas. It can effect everyone, but typically it can appear easily on clients who are already rich in melanin, and are of a darker skin tone.

    Different types of hyperpigmentation include:

    • Freckles- caused by sundamage, or genetics

    • Age spots- caused by sundamge, genetics, poor functioning cells

    • Melasma - caused by hormones & genetics - appears as a mass of pigment or shadowed appearance. Typically is mirrored on the other side of the face

    How is it caused?

    Hyperpigmentation is ultimate caused by inflammation within the skin - Post Inflammatory Hyperpigmentation (PIH). When the Melanocytes (cells that produce melanin) release too much melanin at once, we can see forms of hyperpigmentation. Some things that cause over active melanocytes and/or PIH are:

    • UV/Sun exposure

    • Heat

    • Hormones

    • Injury to the skin

    • Genetics

    When our skin produces excess pigment caused by injury or inflammation, it is a sign that the skin was trying to defend itself. When we are exposed to the sun we naturally tan. A tan is actually a sign that the skin is inflamed and that there is a threat. Therefore our melanocytes release a large amount of melanin so that the melanin rich cells can absorb the UV rays and protect the inside of our body.

    You will find that Skin types I & II have more freckles because they do not have the ability to produce melanin fast enough. As a result, they end up getting a sunburn, and in return the damged occurred appears as freckles.

    Skin Types V & VI will likely hyperpigment due to inflammation and injury much easier because their melanocytes are already very active. This is why we must work low and slow on our darker skin types to allow the melanocytes to regulate.

    How can we treat it?

    Firstly we must always ensure that you are wearing sunscreen (30spf or higher) to protect and prevent from any future damage from the sun.

    Using pigment inhibitors such as Kojic Acid & Arbutin, will signal the melanocytes to relax, and create a disconnect between the chain of events that contribute to the release of melanin.

    Hyroquinone is also a common pigment inhibitor and is where Arbutin is derived from, unfortunately too high of a dose or improper use can cause other issues in the skin, so we must ensure the client is using the product as directed. It cannot be used with Kojic acid or arbutus.

    Vitamin C is a great addition as it is an antioxidant which can help fight against free radicals which damage and disfunction he cells. It does have brightening and lightening properties, however this works best for superficial pigmentation.

    Alumier Products: Even Tone Brightening serum, Intellibright Complex, Lightening Lotion, Retinol Resurfacing Serum,

    In clinic we can treat hyperpigmenation with:

    • Chemical peels (specifically glycolic, mandelic, azaelic acids, jessners & TCA peels): As the cells are forced to regenerate, the pigment cells will lift away, while the specific acids in the peels work to break up the pigment internally.

    • Mesotherapy with Tranexamic acid and/or vitamin c: using a mesotherapy technique, we can infuse active ingredients directly into the skin tissue with out and oxidization. Tranexamic acid helps to inhibit the melanocyte activity, and acts as an anti-inflammatory where most pigmentation issues stem from.

    Our treatments: AHA Duo, Glow Peel, BioRePeel, Mesoeclat Peel, Melano Fusion TDS, Restructurer TDS

  • What is it?

    Blemish-prone skin represents a condition that consists of excess oil production, comedones, papules, pustules, and sometimes, cysts. It most commonly presents on areas of the body that contains many sebaceous glands like the face, neck, chest, back and shoulders. Blemishes typically present themselves (and are most common) in puberty, but many adults also develop the condition.

    Different types of blemishes include:

    Non-inflammatory - Blackheads and whiteheads (open and closed comedones) occur when a plug made up of sebum and dead skin cells can be seen inside a follicle (pore), but does not cause any inflammation or redness.

    • Blackheads: If the plug enlarges and stretches the pore, it is referred to as a blackhead. Blackheads are filled with excess debris, dead skin cells and oil that often oxidizes and/or reflects light differently, causing it to appear darker.

    • Whiteheads: When a thin cover of skin traps the plug, it prevents the oil from oxidizing. This keeps the colour light, hense the name, “whitehead”

    Inflammatory When follicles are blocked by sebum, debris and dead skin cells, the follicular wall experiences pressure. If the pressure is great enough, the follicle wall will break and the contents will spread into the surrounding skin. When your immune system responds to this bacteria and sebum, inflamed blemishes present. The degree of inflammation determines the size and severity of the blemish.

    • Papules: Pink or red bumps without a white or yellow centre (pus).

    • Pustules: Red bumps with a white or yellow centre, indicating the presence of pus. Pustules are formed when the plug inside a pore traps oil and bacteria, which draws white blood cells to the area to fight infection. Pus is made up of dead white blood cells.

    • Cysts and nodules: Larger (and often painful) lesions that extend into the deeper skin layers. Cysts and nodules can last for months, destroy the follicle and lead to permanent scars. Individuals with this type of acne should see a dermatologist for treatment.

    How is it caused?

    • Blocked follicles with oil, dead skin & debris

    • Overproduction of sebum Activated by the sebaceous glands, typically triggered by hormones

    • Spread of C. acnes bacteria causes inflammation

    • Impaired barrier function which leads to impromper pH

    How can we treat it?

    It is very important that we don’t aggravate the acne too much in the early stages of treatment. Low and slow is the best approach to treating blemish prone skin.

    Non inflammatory Blemishes can be treated with any form of exfoliation, detoxification, steam & extractions. The pore are best to be cleaned out, and cell turn over regulated.

    Using products that contain salicylic acid to clean out the pores and regulate oil production when the skin is oily. Retinol can be used to help regulate cell turn over.

    Inflammatory Blemishes are best to be treated through oxygenation, and with anti-inflammatory treatments fist. Once the inflammation is controlled, we can slowly introduce exfoliation treatments. The oxygenation will help kill any bacteria, and the anti-inflammatory will help the lesions heal and break the cycle.

    Using products that reduce bacteria such as benzyol peroxide will work well with inflammatory acne especially when the skin is dry and dehydrated. If the skin is very oily salicylic acid works well. Retinol can be introduced once the inflammation is better contoled.

    Alumier Products:

    Non inflamed -Acne Clarifying cleanser, Purifying gel cleanser, Bright & Clear solution, Acne Balancing serum, HydraClarite, HydraLight

    Inflammed - Acne Clarifying cleanser, Acne Balancing Serum, BPO Facial Gel, HydraClarite

    In clinic we can treat Acne with:

    Detox & oxygenating treatments, clay masks, chemical peels (in the later stage), Mesotherapy

    Our treatments:

    • Detox Pore treatment

    • Oxy Trio

    • Refining Clay treatment

    • LED Light Therapy (Red & Blue)

    • Clarifying Treatment (PCA)

    • AKNE - Id Transdermal solution

  • What is it?

    Different types of blemishes include:

    How is it caused?

    How can we treat it?

    Alumier Products:

    In clinic we can treat Acne with:

    Our treatments: